rating A

standout the muscial theme

about Although the winery was founded in 1950, it was only really in 1985 when Jean-Louis Vergnon took over that quality began to rise. He took a more hands-on approach, using only estate fruit and ensuring that picking happened when the grapes were healthy and ripe. Now his son Didier and grandson Clément are continuing to uphold the quality and family style of dry, pristine wines.

wines tasted

“Murmure” Blanc de Blancs NV ($48)

Vergnon’s wines are all about expressing the land, hence names such as “conversation,” “expression,” or, in this case, “murmure.” It’s 100% Chardonnay, receives no dosage so is completely dry, and doesn’t go through malolactic fermentation: the taste is all about the fruit. Aged for 36 months on the lees.

“Conversation” Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut NV ($60)

Non-vintage, but mostly based on one harvest: latest release is 80% 2018. 90% of the wine comes from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, the rest from Avize and Oger. 50% of the base wine fermented and aged in older 400 litre barrels. No malolactic fermentation. Three years on the lees, with 5g/l dosage. Floral and fresh, with a toasty, lees mouthfeel. Very moreish.

“Rosémotion” Rosé Grand Cru Extra Brut NV ($90)

An interesting blend for a rosé: 90% Chardonnay, with the pale pink colour coming from 10% still Pinot Noir grown in the Grand Cru village of Mailly. The Chardonnay is planted in the Grands Crus on Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, with a little bit from Avize and Oger. 20% of the base wine (which is 80% vintage) is aged in used oak barrels, and there is no malolactic fermentation. Aged for three years on the lees, with 3g/l dosage. A very lightly fruity style, a very fine, gentle style with depth and a long finish.

“Hautes Mottes” Grand Cru Brut Nature 2013 ($120)

100% Chardonnay from chalky soils and sixty-year-old vines on the producer’s oldest site, aged on the lees for six years with no malolactic fermentation or dosage. Remains very fresh despite its age and mature dried fruit aromas. Rich, leesy mouthfeel. Classic expression of aged Chardonnay.

website https://champagne-jl-vergnon.com/en/

email contact@champagne-jl-vergnon.com

phone +33 3 26 57 53 86

address 1 Grande Rue, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger