rating A-

standout biodynamic Meunier

about Dominique Lelarge and Dominique Pugeot met in the 1980s and determined to upgrade the traditional family winery to move away from conventional farming. Since 1990, they've gradually moved towards more sustainable practices, becoming certified biodynamic in 2015. There’s a focus on Meunier, but not solely as there are exceptional Chardonnay-based wines, both still and sparkling. All wines undergo extended ageing, for a serious, mature style. Not afraid of experimentation.

wines tasted

Tradition Extra Brut NV ($57)

"Tradition" is the introductory wine for Lelarge-Pugeot, though it's much more than that. The base wines are vintage-based and spend twelve months in large, old oak barrels before three years on the lees in the bottle after the second fermentation. The dominant grape is Meunier (60%) which provides a fresh fruitiness to the wine, backed up by the body of Pinot Noir and the elegance of Chardonnay. Extremely more-ish.

Blanc de Blancs NV ($72)

100% Chardonnay, coming from a 1.5ha plot. Although it's non-vintage, the wine still has vintage characteristics as it's a blend of successive harvests. It's aged on the lees for five years, before bottling with 3g/l of dosage, making it almost completely dry, the tiny amount of sugar balancing the racy acidity.

“Les Meuniers de Clémence” NV ($60)

Six years in the bottle, 2g/l dosage. Not labelled as a vintage, but is vintage-based. One of my first introductions to just how good Meunier can be: fresh, fruity, serious, and ageworthy.

“Nature et Non Dosé” NV ($60)

Although labeled non-vintage, the wine comes from 2014, spending 16 months on the lees after the second fermentation. No dosage: a wine that's all about its racy acidity and lean structure. 50% Meunier, it still has a fresh, appealing fruity quality that gives the wine structure and balance.

“Saignée de Meunier” Brut Nature 2014 ($68)

100% Meunier. A different style of champagne rosé. Colour comes from 32 hours skin contact, followed by six months in barrel, and then up to four years in bottle. Herbal, dry (no dosage), nutty, lean, and lightly fruity.

“Rosé de Meuniers” 2018 ($60)

Six years ageing, 7% addition of red wine. 100% Pinot Noir. Similar in style to the white wines: lean, acidic, serious, with a firm grip to the texture, with red fruit, floral aromas.

Rosé Extra Brut 2014 ($70)

100% Pinot Noir. Seven years on the lees. Mature, earthy, mushroom aromas, a grainy texture, retains high acid despite long ageing.

“Les Charmes de Vrigny” NV ($60)

50% Meunier, 30% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. 2008 base with solera aged wines added. Eight years ageing, 2g/l dosage. A tasty, fruit-forward style that’s also very leesy, with mature bruised apples, dried flower aromas.

Gueux Extra Brut 2015 ($85)

75% Meunier, 20% Pinot Noir, 5% Chardonnay, from two parcels just north of Vrigny. Smoky, spicy, with mature cooked apple aromas, lean but fruity. Chardonnay adds brightness to the fruity body of Meunier and Pinot Noir.

“Quintessence” 2008 ($95)

70% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir, 10% Meunier. 10 years in the bottle, minimal dosage (2g/l). A lean but developed style, with nutty, smoky, dried fruit aromas, while maintaining freshness.

Lùna Brut Nature 2018 ($135)

85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir. Co-macerated on the skins, resulting in quite a deep red colour despite being mostly Chardonnay. Aromas very botanical: could easily be used in an exceptional martini.

Lùna Brut Nature 2015 ($135)

50/50 Pinot Noir/Chardonnay. Racy, chewy acidity, with earthy, mushroom, mature aromas. Like a mature, high-acid cider.

website https://champagnelelarge-pugeot.com/en/home

email contact@champagnelelarge-pugeot.com

phone +33 3 26 03 69 43

address 30 rue Saint-Vincent, Vrigny