rating A++

standout unique oxidative style

about Bollinger’s recent history hasn’t been without controversy: their ageing regime in oak barrels led to complaints of overly oxidative wines. Over the last ten years, that issue has been resolved, in part by ageing the wines in large-format bottles as well as barrels. The style remains more oxidative, which creates a very open, generous character which doesn’t have to battle with oxygen when the bottle is opened. Pinot Noir forms the base of Bollinger, and is as good an example of what sparkling Pinot Noir tastes like in Champagne. Tasting Bollinger blind cements an understanding of the very clear house style and of Pinot Noir in Champagne: rich, powerful, but complex and subtle.

wines tasted

Special Cuvée NV ($70)

Of the major Champagne houses, this is one of the more expensive non-vintage introductory wines. It’s also one of the best, rich, powerful, and vinous, and very typical of the Bollinger style. 10% of the wine is aged in magnums, for ten to fifteen years which allows blending for complexity. 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Meunier.

Brut Rosé NV ($70)

An identical blend to the Special Cuvée, but with red wine added for colour and vinous complexity. Just about as good a rosé champagne as there is.

PN TX 2017 ($125)

Primarily from the Tauxières Crui, with Avenay and Verzenay in the blend, this is 100% Pinot Noir, almost a vintage wine, but with reserve magnums dating back to 2006. A relatively new project from Bollinger to emphasise the character of their Pinot Noir plantings. It’s almost too good.

La Grande Année ($190)

70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay. Bollinger’s préstige cuvée whose overly oxidative character affected the producer’s reputation as wines were disgorged and corked individually. That has changed however, without changing the overall style which is refined, powerful, ageworthy, complex, and like few other champagnes.

website https://www.champagne-bollinger.com/en/

email contact@champagne-bollinger.fr

phone +33 3 26 53 33 66

address 20 Boulevard Maréchal de Lattre, Aÿ, France