rating A+
standout the vinous character
about based in Vertus, grape-growing history goes back to 1677, wines first made in 1927. Yannick Doyard took over in 1979 and transformed the winery into one of the finest grower-producers. 10ha are owned in Vertus, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Cramant, Oger, Avize, and Aÿ. Farming is organic, the vineyards ploughed by horse. All wines have long lees ageing (at least four years) and the style is particularly vinous, akin to the finest Burgundy. Yann’s son Guillaume is now in charge.
wines tasted
“Vendémaire” Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut NV ($70)
Non-vintage but a precise expression of three connected vintages. Mostly from Vertus, but also from Grand Cru parcels. 40% of the wine is fermented and aged in barrels. Four years on the lees, 4g/l dosage. Very typical of Doyard’s vinous style and expressions of Chardonnay: vibrant, rich, concentrated, and with a long finish, bruised apple aromas balanced by high acidity. Burgundy with bubbles.
“Revolution” Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV ($95)
100% Chardonnay. Blend of three vintages with significant ageing of seven years on the lees. 20% of the base wine sees malolactic fermentation, 50% aged in 228l barrels. A noticeably fine, mature, sophisticated expression of Chardonnay and Champagne.
Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut 2015 ($170)
100% Chardonnay from four Grand Cru villages: 70% Avize, 10% Oger, 10% Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, 10% Cramant. Fermented and aged in old Burgundy barrels before lees ageing of seven years. 2g/l dosage. Champagne at its most vinous, tasting like an old Grand Cru Chablis. Nutty, dried fruit, high acid, intense structure, long finish.
“Clos de l’Abbaye” Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut 2018 ($170)
All Chardonnay, but with a difference. From a vineyard in Vertus first planted in 1956, a significant number of the vines are Chardonnay Musqué, a more aromatic clone. These plantings are slowly being extended by sélection massale to propagate the best cuttings. The base wine is fermented and aged in Burgundy barrels, and then aged in the bottle for four years. 2g/l dosage. Although it’s more aromatic than one would expect from Blanc de Blancs, it’s still subtle, elegant, and refined. No malolactic fermentation maintains the fine, high acid structure.
“Monts Ferrés” Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Extra Brut 2016 ($250)
Single-vineyard wine from four parcels in the Mont Ferrés lieu dit in Vertus. Native yeast, no malolactic fermentation. Aged for six years on the lees. Almost no dosage. This is a serious example of champagne, which can be aged for another ten years, the concentrated lees structure balanced by lean, high acidity.
Oeil de Perdrix Grand Cru Extra Brut 2018 ($170)
75% Pinot Noir from Aÿ, 25% Chardonnay from Avize. Very light pressing of the Pinot Noir for a very light golden rather than pink colour; Chardonnay is barrel fermented and aged. Three years on the lees, with 3g/l dosage. Extraordinarily delicious and vibrantly bright, with a long spicy finish, subtle and concentrated.
website champagnedoyard.fr
phone +44 3 26 52 14 74
address 39, avenue du Général Leclerc, Blancs-Coteaux (Vertus)
