rating B+

standout the yellow label

about one of the legendary champagne producers. The widow Clicquot (born Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin) took over the winery in her 20s when her husband died young. She transformed it from a small winery into one of the biggest in the region. She helped invent the riddling process, making production more efficient and gaining an advantage on her competitors. A lot has changed since then: the biggest market in her time was Russia, for very sweet styles. The winery is now owned by LVMH, and the standard is of good, consistent quality. The most famous wine is the “Yellow Label,” found around the world. Barrel ageing for the base wines has been introduced for a richer, more ageworthy style.

wines tasted

Yellow Label Brut Champagne NV ($60)

A classic, though not especially exciting: there are better champagnes at the same price. At the same time, it is extremely consistent and reliable. Comes from between fifty and sixty villages, and, although the blend changes, it’s generally 50-55% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 15-20% Meunier. The introduction of barrel ageing is making the wine more interesting and potentially ageworthy, adding a rich roundness to the wine.

Rosé Brut Champagne NV ($80)

Very similar blend to the Yellow Label, with the addition of 12% red wine for colour: a high amount in comparison to other pink champagne, giving the wine an extra richness and fruitiness.

“La Grande Dame” (vintage) ($230)

Veuve-Clicquot’s luxury offering in homage to Barbe-Nicole Ponsardin. 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay—an unusual amount of Pinot Noir for a prestige cuvée. 6g/l dosage. A rich, weighty, fruit-forward style which eases with time. Current release is 2015.

website https://www.veuveclicquot.com/

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recommended reading: The Widow Clicquot: The Story of a Champagne Empire and the Woman Who Ruled It by Tilar J. Mazzeo