rating A+

standout one of the best, most elegant grower-producers in Champagne

about a grower-producer established in 1890, now into the fifth generation, run by Laurent Champs. The winery is based in the Premier Cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne, owning eleven hectares of vineyards, often north-facing but with some south-facing vineyards too, particularly the 65-year-old ungrafted vines of Blanches Voies. The base wines are fermented and aged in large, old oak foudres, which adds a subtle richness. There is no malolactic fermention, for a crisp, linear style. These are fine, elegant wines, with a gentle power and depth to them. Ratafia also made, although not tasted.

wines tasted

“Grand Cellier” Premier Cru Brut NV ($120)

70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. Ten months in foudres before second fermentation, with 30 months on the lees. Available in various bottle sizes: a Jeroboam of this wine does not last long. A champagne of stellar, consistent quality with the perfect balance of racy acidity, lean elegance, and lees-based backbone. Unfortunately, the price continues to rise.

“Cuvée Rubis” Brut Rosé NV ($110)

90% Pinot Noir, including 15% red wine addition, and 10% Chardonnay. Ten months in foudres before second fermentation. Fruit comes from the Premier Cru villages of Rilly-la-Montagne and Villers-Allerands. 30 months on the lees. A defined, elegant rosé.

“Rosé Emotion” Premier Cru Brut 2014 ($200)

40% Pinot Noir, 60% Chardonnay: the colour comes from the saignée method. Fruit comes from sixty-year-old vines in the lieu-dit Les Blanches Voies in the Premier Cru village of Rilly-la-Montagne. No malolactic fermentation. Five years on the lees. 8g/l dosage: despite the lean, elegant style, there’s body and weight to complement the long ageing.

website https://www.champagnevilmart.fr/en/

email patricia@champagnevilmart.fr

phone +33 326 034 001

address 5, rue des Gravières, Rilly-la-Montagne