rating A
standout Burgundy meets champagne
about based in the village of Molesme in Aube, not far from northern Burgundy (Chablis and Bourgogne Blanc also made). Just under thirteen hectares farmed, mostly Pinot Noir in the village of Buxeuil, with a small amount of Chardonnay from Montgueux. Vincent Couche took over in 1999, and moved both viticulture and winemaking to biodynamic: certified since 2008, with some experimental winemaking but consistently very high quality. Great example of the character and quality of Pinot Noir based wines from Côte des Bars.
wines tasted
"Elégance" Extra Brut NV ($65)
84% Pinot Noir, 16% Chardonnay. Based on 2018 vintage, with reserve wines from the previous three. Two years on the lees, 5g/l dosage. Very fine, high-acid, refined, but generous expression of Côte des Bars.
"Chloé" Brut Nature NV ($100)
65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay. Four years on the lees, no sugar. Base wines from a solera system started in 2011, 25% of it topped up each year. A subtle oxidative character which allows the wine to be open and expressive.
"Sensation" Extra Brut 2002 ($160)
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay. Twenty years on the lees, 5g/l dosage. From one of Champagne’s great vintages, this is quite the treat. It’s dominated by mature tertiary aromas, but maintains a vibrant freshness. It’s very much ready to drink now due to the long ageing, but has enough weight and acidity to continue to evolve.
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